Ougstchummuhorn 22. & 23.8.2015

After many organizational and logistic difficulties we finally found ourselves in Ausserberg and started our hike up to Wiwannihütte (2471 m). We wanted to climb the East ridge of Wiwannihorn (3001 m) but unfortunately it was completely enveloped in clouds. Since we preferred to stay in the sun we chose a warm up route on Chlys Ougstchummuhorn (2881 m). Eight pitches of slab climbing up to 5b on great granite and with great views. To save the knees we just abseiled down and went back to the hut for some chilling and dinner.

Next morning clouds filled the sky and Wiwannihorn again looked questionable. Since the climb is 17 pitches and the weather forecast was not great either we decided to return to Ougstchummuhorn and climb the bigger tower surprisingly called Gross Ougstchummuhorn (2924 m). Since we were warmed up we upped it up a notch and did the longer nine pitch route that goes up to 6a. This one was much more interesting, mixing slab, ridge, a little overhang and some cracks as well. On the last pitch we got a short shower but just as we reached the top and were ready to run down the skies cleared again and the abseil was quite comfy. Rain returned as scheduled just as we reached the hut however and so we had some fresh pie and a coffee before we started the long and steep walk back down to the valley.


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